…if you’re lucky enough to be attending Royal Ascot this year, here are a few tips to ensure that your status as a Savvy Chap is recognised by those in the know, yet never overstated:
Black tailcoat in herringbone weave, all wool, light to medium weight, or vintage tailcoat in Barathea wool (slightly heavier, and useful as a standby in the event of chillier than expected conditions). Grey tailcoats have their place – the Royal Enclosure is not it.
Waistcoat in dove grey, buff, or canary yellow. Double-breasted waistcoats are especially favoured by ourselves, but you won’t go wrong if you adhere to the above rules on colours. Fancy, embroidered waistcoats are the preserve of footballers’ weddings and Canadian snooker players.
Trousers in grey stripe (may be wool / poly mix for durability). If you’ve selected a vintage Barathea tailcoat, look for English-Cut (curved waistband, notch- back, high-rise, buttons for braces – which must accompany).
Plain white shirt with turn down collar (preferably a detachable collar). Ensure that the shirt sleeves are of sufficient length to leave 1/4 inch of cuff showing from under the tailcoat sleeve.
The tie is the one opportunity for expressing a little (discrete) individuality. We like diagonal stripes. A plain white pocket square may be worn. Wing collars with cravats have had a bad name in recent times, and will be considered by many as inappropriate for a Savvy Chap to wear to Ascot. The one exception is in the context of a very vintage ensemble, in which case the cravat must also be vintage – see photo below. Novelty ties, or anything in polyester, may result in immediate ejection from the course.
Highly polished shoes must be black, ideally plain Oxfords, no brogues or loafers.
Top Hat in black, ideally silk. Vintage silk toppers in larger sizes are highly prized, and priced. Polished fur felt is considered next best.
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